The enchanting island of Puerto Rico boasts 272 miles of Atlantic Ocean and Caribbean Sea coastline with calm waters or pounding surfs. But sand and sea aren’t the only attractions. A world-renowned rainforest, tasty cuisine, friendly people and a fun nightlife are also great reasons to vacation on this tropical island.
San Juan, the island’s capital city, has a business district, cruise ship harbor and the largest convention center in the Caribbean. But most folks come here for the beachfront in the Condado neighborhood and its large chain hotels and small B&Bs. Walking around is as easy as the shopping at upscale stores (Cartier, Gucci) and feasting on classy Puerto Rican cuisine (Mario Pagán Restaurant), Cuban food (Havana Bar & Grill) and succulent steak (STK Restaurant) is just steps away.
Ashford Avenue runs parallel to the shoreline and offers great people watching. It’s like you’re moseying along Collins Avenue in South Beach. At dawn and dusk, joggers chase the pavement (bring your Nikes). At night, pedestrians stroll, the avenue fills with mellow people headed to the bars, cafes and casinos.
Established in 1521, Old San Juan, the oldest European-founded city in the Americas, was built by Spaniards who erected forts to protect the land. Now stores, eateries and a cruise ship port welcome travelers from around the world.
Visit the historic fortresses of Fort San Felipe del Morro (1539), El Palacio de Santa Catalina (La Fortaleza, 1540) and Fort San Cristóbal (1783). Fill up on Japanese/Latino fusion flavors at Azalea, feast on a traditional Puerto Rican lunch at Cafe Manolin Old San Juan and dine at La Mallorquina (circa 1848) just for the history.
Snacking on delectable powdered-sugar mallorca bread is a Boricua tradition that you can enjoy at the appropriately named Cafetería Mallorca. You can walk off the calories as you explore Old San Juan with its colorful old-world architecture and that’s energized by the new age shops like the Coach Outlet.
Tours Worth Taking
The northeast coastal town of Río Grande, 15.4 miles east of San Juan International Airport, is home to the 28,000-acre El Yunque National Forest. The oldest forest reserve (circa 1876) in the Western Hemisphere and the only tropical rainforest in the U.S. National Forest System. It’s home to 250 native tree species, 200 types of ferns and petroglyphs left by the Taíno aborigines, the island’s original inhabitants who arrived between 500 – 600 AD. Grab an ATV, take a horse tour or hike through the forest whose vegetation is making a comeback from 2017’s Hurricane Maria.
Luquillo Beach, Puerto Rico’s famous mile-long version of the Riviera, is due east of Rio Grande. Offshore reefs keep the ocean waters calm and tranquil, leaving the creamed-colored sands in pristine condition. When it’s time to break from the sun and sand, munch on fresh fried red snapper from concession stands and wash it down with cold Medalla beer.
There’s a great chance to mix with locals if you travel to Plaza Las Americas, San Juan’s largest mall, which features stores from Abercrombie & Fitch to Zara. You’ll see folks walking, running or playing tennis at Parque Central (Central Park). Stop by the park’s San Juan Natatorium, the most advanced swimming facility in the Caribbean, and do a few laps.
Get out on the island
Grab a car and take a trip on the island’s elaborate highway systems, across its center. Start in San Juan and take the beautiful Highway 52 (PR-52), which navigates through the gorgeous Cordillera Central Mountain Range. This panoramic route is on par with California’s Pacific Coast Highway. You’ll be awed by the steep peaks, deep verdant valleys and tropical forests where Puerto Rico’s coffee is produced.
As you descend into Ponce, the mountainous drive segues into flat lands. Huge red letters sprawl across the horizon and spell out P-O-N-C-E. Find your way to the town center’s Plaza de las Delicias. Explore the red and black striped firehouse Parque de Bomba, built in 1883 for a volunteer fire fighters’ brigade, Ponce Cathedral, Our Lady of Guadalupe Cathedral and the Museo de Arte de Ponce.
Then motor up Route 2 to Rincón on the northwest coast. The 240-year-old town is blessed with a string of beaches along eight miles of coastland. To find Maria’s Beach, where the surfers go, look for the whale-shaped beach sign next to the Caddy’s Calypso Café (perfect for a sunset beer). Up a hill, The Beach House restaurant serves some of the freshest food in the city, while Domes Beach, named for an old nuclear plant’s dome, is perfect for whale watching.
Head back to Route 2 and in minutes you’ll encounter the Barceloneta Mall and Puerto Rico’s Premium Outlets. Pale blue, orange and pink pastel-colored buildings house Adidas, Nike, Ann Taylor, Gap, Coach, Ralph Lauren outlets.
Loiza — Puerto Rico’s Rich Black History
In the 1500s, members of the Yoruba tribe settled in the town of Loiza, just 18 miles east of San Juan. Brought to P.R. as slaves, they and their successors eventually created a municipality. Five centuries later, Loiza is divided into six barrios, which are subdivided into sectors. Thirty-one percent of the population is Afro-Latino and 46% are mixed race.
Locals are called Loiceños, and their connection to the motherland is manifested in their Afro-Latino dance, art and music. To experience their heritage, you can take bomba lessons, traditional Puerto Rican music with Black roots, at the Don Rafael Cepeda School of Bomb and Plena. Celebrations like Mayombe Carnival in February, run throughout the year. Weekend tours to the city are available, too.
Nineteen beaches, with Australian Pine and mangrove trees, bejewel Loiza’s coastline. The town of Piñones, in the barrio of Torrecilla Baja, runs along Route 187 and is filled with restaurants, cafes and kiosks that serve the freshest fish. Waterfront Restaurant sits just above a boardwalk and has tasty empanadas and mofongo. For great food and a live band on weekend nights La Casita Amarilla is the place to party.
If you want to experience authentic Puerto Rican hospitality mixed with the right amount of modern conveniences, stay at the Fairmont El San Juan Hotel. It’s in the town of Isla Verde and dates back to 1958, when Nat King Cole and Sammy Davis Jr. played there. The elegant hotel, designed by Morris Lapidus (Miami Beach’s The Fontainebleau), is a feat of engineering and work of art. Resort amenities spread out on 15 acres and are treasured by guests.
Four outdoor pools, a stunningly beautiful beachfront and attentive service are a big draw. Gambling in the Foxwood El San Juan Casino, live bands at Chico Cabaret and dancing at Club Brava are fun. Food aficionados love the 16 Ounce Wagyu New York Steak at Meat Market, cherish the Caesar Salad with fresh shrimp at the Beach Club and they’re devoted to the Puerto Rican Rum Cake at the Cana eatery, courtesy of the James Beard Award Finalist Chef Jose Enrique.
Need a work out? The Well & Being Fitness Center building features state-of-the-art fitness equipment. Need pampering? Treat yourself to an Alpine Arnica Deep Tissue massage at the Well & Being Spa. Tennis, pickle ball, billiards and ping-pong will keep kids happy. And an historic 300-year-old Banyan tree graces the El San Juan’s grounds like it’s a beacon for those who prefer award-winning luxury hotels (Conde Nast Traveler’s Readers’ Choice Award—Best Hotel in the Caribbean).
Viva Puerto Rico! That’s what you’ll say after a trip to this island paradise.
Visit travel writer Dwight Brown at www.DwightBrownInk.com.